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Shattered but happy. Update and apologies later.

Update - Tuesday, 1/3/05

12:30
Sitting at Logan waiting for my flight to Atlanta-New Orleans. Alas, WiFi access isn't free so this update is probably late.

Snow was too heavy last night so we didn't go to Ceremony. Fortunately, it had stopped snowing in the morning so no problems at the airport (or getting there).

Really looking forward to NOLA now. Weather forecast is OK, not too warm but not too rainy, either, at least not until later in the week.

17:45
Arrived safely and on time in Atlanta after a quiet flight. The connection flight to NOLA leaves at only two gates down the line, in about 45 minutes.

Hey, robinbloke! I just bought a ... Marathon bar (like Snickers but with extra stuff).

19:00 (local time)
Arrived in New Orleans. Took the Airport Shuttle (25 return compared to 28 for a single taxi fare) and as my place was on the end of the route, I got a free tour of parts of the French Quarter, too.
Have a basic little room which could do with some decoration/refurbishing but I don't need more than a bed and a bathroom as I will spend most of my time out and about.
Had dinner (fried redfish) at a random bar/restaurant, called Garlic Glove on St. Charles Ave, unpacked some bits, had a shower and will now go to sleep.
Plans for tomorrow include the French Quarter, maybe a river cruise and a music club or two in Frenchmen St. in the evening. I realise now I should have printed some stuff as I can't get online currently but I'll find some netcafe tomorrow, I hope.
Other things on my list: Garden District, a cemetery or two, Algier's Point, Voodoo Museum etc.
I'm not really planning but take it as it comes along.

Updates - Wednesday 2/3

The weather was very nice to start with, clear blue skies and sunshine but the clouds came around lunchtime and it also got colder. Not that I mind, it's a lot easier to walk around when it isn't hot. Good thing I packed warmer stuff for Boston, though.

7:30
- Got up, had breakfast at 8 and headed out

- Walked a bit to a supermarket to pick up a VisiTour Pass (3 days unlimited use of public transport for $12). While I walked around, I found a house that could have been the house Lestat hid in in Interview With the Vampire, i.e. old colonial style but dilapitated with an overgrown garden. BTW, Anne Rice's house is on my agenda for Friday and I'll try if I can find Trent Reznor's house, too. ;o)

- Took the St. Charles Streetcar West until a bit after Riverbend and back again. Some nice houses there, some of them for sale. New houses in the area are quite expensive, I saw one advertised for $800K+.

- As someone on an LJ community and many guides recommended it, I went to Uglesich's (can't remember URL, google for it) for lunch and it was indeed gorgeous. Taking the advice I was given, I was there early and at 11:15 managed to snatch the last table. After me, the queue started. It's completely unassuming from the outside. They definitely don't need to advertise their place with good looks of the exterior, they make their business off their regulars. There were six or seven square (i.e. four person) tables, one of them seated six, I think. A bloke behind the bar shucked huge, fresh oysters pretty much continuously. The waiter must have been one of the quickest, friendliest and funniest ever, despite the severe stress he was under. I don't think he has to go to the gym, he gets his workout at his job. ;o)
Looking at the menu, I was spoilt for choice so I peeked to the next table where someone was just served "Oyster Shooters" (four giant oysters in their shell, cooked in flavoured oil with garlic, herbs and stuff) so I was immediately sold on that and for mains I wanted to order the catfish plate but the waiter recommended the "Muddy Water" Catfish (deep fried in a flavourful sauce that looked like the water of the Mississippi but tasted delicious with a side of fried new potatoes and garlic bread). Everything was wonderful, especially the oysters. I'm considering going there every day for lunch but $30 isn't really in my budget every day. It's just going to be a po-boy tonight, I think. ;o)

- Took the streetcar East to the end where the French Quarter starts. Walked along Bourbon St which is a peculiar mix of old houses, thrift and souvenir shops, bars, restaurants, hotels, adult entertainment establishments (anything from strip/table dancing clubs to full on sex on stage...). Pretty much a tourist trap but some of the souvenirs and tshirts are actually quite good and reasonably priced ($15 for a dark tshirt with full colour print). There's so much stuff I could buy for people without hurting my wallet too much but my problem is that I won't have the luggage space. Hm, I need to go back to the post office and ask about shipping costs for parcels. A couple of tshirts, souvenirs and cDs shouldn't be too expensive...

- Took Decatur Street back, had a coffee at Jimmy Buffet's Margaritaville bar, and then walked alongside the The Old Muddy. I had expected it to be wider compared to what it's like in St. Louis but it isn't that much wider, actually. Bought a ticket for a steamboat harbour cruise tomorrow, ignored the IMAX and Aquarium (I'll visit museums and such should the weather get worse), bought 11 CDs at Virgin and walked along Magazine St. and up to the Contemporary Arts Center which has a netcafe with free internet access if you buy some drinks/snacks. Took the streetcar back (the nearest stop from my B&B is just one block away)

( Music booty )

- Another great thing about NOLA is that you can do many things on foot, it's all relatively close together and not that big. If I hadn't been on my feet all day, I could easily have walked to my B&B in about half an hour or so from the French Quarter but as public transport doesn't cost me more regardless how many journeys I take, it's convenient. Just on the way back late at night, it's advisable to get a taxi.

Entry started at Wednesday, 0:30
Tonight, I had random (because it started raining) dinner (smoked sausage po-boy with Jambalaya) in Chartres and then went on to Frenchmen St. The Spotted Cat was the first stop where a quintet (t, s, d, g/p, b) played cool Jazz and then a few doors south to the Apple Barrel where a trio (washboard, rusty National guitar, harp) played zydeco-y Blues. Both bars were quite small, the Cat with seating for about 30 and the Apple Barrel even fewer, maybe 20 but that wasn't full. Both were frequented by locals/normal people rather than tourists, so exactly the places I wanted to find. Just one guest at the Barrel stood out: Cream plastic Stetson, face like Iggy Pop, long hair in a single braid down his back to his belt, small diamond stud in his left ear, purple suit, an in the poor light unidentifiably coloured (somewhere between burgundy and orange) collarless shirt, a tiger striped tie/scarf, huge silver rings on every finger of his left hand and alligator skin cowboy boots. To top it off, he smoked a huge, expensive (because it smelled nice) cigar. Pure class. ;o)

After having had quite a bit of cheap alcohol (two beers, two Screwdrivers) I felt a bit tired so I took a cab home.

robinbloke, you'd love the Screwdrivers (Vodka Orange) here. At the Apple Barrel, a generous (i.e. half and half) one with Absolute Citron was $6 incl. tip, so only a bit over £3.
Generally, prices are pretty much the same as in the UK, that is the same numbers, except wine by the glass which cost from $5 upwards.

Updates - Thursday 3/3

Woke up at 9, later than intended, whoops. Probably a bit too much alcohol the night before...
It was still drizzling outside but with nothing better to do, I took the streetcar into town again. First stop was St. Louis Cemetery No. 1, the oldest in N.O. The dreary weather made for a slightly spooky atmosphere around the old, mostly dilapitated tombs (which are all above ground, mausoleum style). On my way back, I stopped at the Gumbo Shop for lunch (Alligator Sauce Picante and Okra/Seafood Gumbo) and then trekked to the harbour for the rivercruise I had booked. That, however, had been canceled but at least I got a refund. As it was close by, I took the free ferry to Algiers Point, where I took a couple of photos, walked along the Jazz Walk of Fame a bit but soon got very tired so headed back.
Next up was Jackson Square, St. Louis Cathedral and the Voodoo Museum, which had a number of interesting exhibits but I would have liked some more info on the various spirits and the practice.
Back home to drop off stuff, write a couple of postcards and put my feet up a bit, then it was time for the nightlife. First stop was the Blues Club on Bourbon (pretty much the only decent club on Bourbon that isn't either sleazy and/or a tourist trap). I moved on past the Quarter to Frenchmen again, where I first had wonderful dinner at the Snug Harbor (Crawfish Etouffe) and then went to the Blue Nile where Henry Butler, a local piano legend was playing. Great stuff in a variety of styles from classic Blues to free jazz. Just because I felt like it, I visited the Apple Barrel again where a combo was playing bluesy/boggie woogie-y stuff. Again, very nice and this time it was packed. Last night I thought it wasn't season yet but apparently not that many people go out on Wednesday nights. The clientele was extremely mixed, containing biker types, students, odd people, a cyber (with undercut, goggles, muppet coat, painted eyebrows etc.), ranging from their mid-twenties to mid-sixties. Called it a night at about 1 and got a cab home.

Garden District tomorrow during the day, dinner at Brigtsen's in the evening and then Frenchmen St. again. There are a couple of places I haven't been yet but I assume I'll end up at the Apple Barrel again. ;o)

Updates - Friday 4/3

Started the day with a guided tour of Lafayette Cemetery, which was very interesting. The day started out grey and cold but then during the tour the sun come out and all the clouds went away. I spent the glorious, warm (ca. 20C) day wandering around the Garden District, having lunch at a small local corner diner on Magazine, walked back home on Magazine, changed into something more suitable for dinner at a nice restaurant, took the streetcar to Audobon Park, walked, sat around and read a bit (not enough time for the zoo, alas) and then walked to Riverbend to find Brigtsen's. Someone on food_porn had raved about it so I had to try it. I had a table reserved for 5:30 which was a bit early but considering I wanted to go out later in the evening, a wise choice. The choice was varied but I wanted to stay with the seafood and fish, so I decided on the Butternut Shrimp Bisque as starter and the Broiled Gulf Fish (Black Drumfish in my case) in a parmesan shrimp crust with vegetables and other stuff and finally Fresh Strawberries with a Champagne Sabayon. As accompaniment I had a large glass of a very nice Pinot Grigio and a dram of 12 year old Macallan to finish it all off. The final bill came to $62 excluding tip but it was worth every penny. The flavour, the texture, the way all the parts harmonised with each other, the presentation, everything was spot on and delicious. Clearly one of if not the best dinners I've ever had. Just when the  waitress asked me if I wanted the whisky neat (as if there's any other way), my high esteem of the place or at least the waitress dropped a bit. Americans...

Took the streetcar home, relaxed a bit, changed again and hit town. Started at the Blues Club where Brian Lee and his band played the finest electric Blues from B.B. King to Stevie Ray Vaughan. Bourbon St. on a Friday night was just too much for me, so I went down three blocks and walked up Decatur without seeing many people at all. After the evening's expenses, I didn't fancy paying cover at any of the larger clubs so I hit the Spotted Cat again, where a duo just played their last track. After a short changeover, the New Orleans Jazz Vipers started, a quintet featuring trumpet, sax, clarinet, guitar, upright bass and violin. Very cool stuff and loads of people at the small bar made for a great atmosphere. Obviously, I had to finish the night at the Apple Barrel where I almost feel at home already. You could tell it's mostly local people but nobody minded me at all and I felt really welcome there. This time, there was a quarted playing Dr John style Blues and R&B. Mr Purple Suit was there again but this time only in leather jacket and a black fedora.
Took cab home and collapsed.

My best OOC pic of SCaRE

Just a little taster, many more to come, I'll post a link when they're up. Give me a week or two, though.
( Charles Bailey and the water balloon )

Yesterday/Today

First of all, my alarm clock didn't go off so I woke up at 7 with my flight being at 8:15. Thanks to the great hotel shuttle, I made it in time, got given the wrong boarding pass, had it corrected, went through security and still had time to spare at the gate. Phew.

Unfortunately, in the rush I left the postcards I'd written in the hotel room. As they weren't stamped, I doubt the hotel will be kind enough to send them.
Sorry, mazzarc, sherbetsaucers, deborah_c, madmoses, sea_cucumber and  sollunastella :o(

Had time to kill in Boston so I read a lot and finally boarded the plane to London. It was a quiet flight, only about six hours. We even got there ahead of schedule but the gate wasn't ready for us yet and we had to wait for coaches. Then I met a random gamer I knew from freeforms at baggage claim, chatted a bit, found the bus terminal and could hop straight on.

Was finally home by about 10.